![]() Saving black and white photos as grayscale image files can preserve disk space, but this isn't the only consideration. If your scanner and software support RAW/DNG (digital negative) files then this is even better. Save the scan as a TIFF file to maximize detail preservation. This way your digital original can withstand more retouching before it begins to show signs of posterization. Scan at the highest bit depth possible: 16-bits per channel or 48-bits in total color depth, if available. Try experimenting with different settings so that you can see what the image looks like on-screen. The chosen scanning resolution will depend on the sharpness and focus of the original images, but should ideally resolve the speckles of noise/grain in the print. In general, use a dot per inch (DPI) resolution of at least 400-600 DPI for prints, and several times this resolution with film negatives. Pay particular attention to the following: Silverfast is quite powerful if you happen to have the film negative, while Vuescan is more than sufficient (and inexpensive) for printed photos. ![]() However, sometimes this can be too limiting, in which case Vuescan and Silverfast are two notable third-party choices. Often whichever software came with your scanner will work fine, especially since this caters to the capabilities of your particular device. Everything else being equal, flatbed scanners usually provide much higher quality than similar sheetfed scanners. Needless to say, try and use the best scanning equipment and software at your disposal. This step is critical, since it ultimately determines your restoration's potential. Before any digital restoration can be performed, the original photo (or film negative) needs to be scanned.
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